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[Page 93]

in all sketches or Else we were unfortunate in not seeing it at a right time. At Cadenabbia we fell in with a large party of Quakers - they had doffed the peculiar costume.  We found they came from Darlington & were named Backhouse - as they could not (from the ages) have numbered your "friend Jas Backhouse" among them we did not make ourselves known. From hence we went to Lugano in very odd conveyances - this lake is very pretty & much smaller - alive with Spanish Chestnuts in full bloom a luxuriance.  We had a beautiful drive from Lugano to lake Maggiore. I took the Steamer to Isola Bella - parts of this lake are very fine.  The Isola Bella is very curious - I like to see it but I do not want to live there & I think if I were Master I should prefer having the island to myself instead of a dirty village almost built up against my house.  We saw some beautiful trees [Indecipherable] here & on Como the largest I ever saw - Bays Laurels - Myrtles Magnolias Tulip trees.

[Cross written]

Engagement with us.  These mountain passes are almost too exciting - their grandeur & beauty are so great & the snow peaks towering above & the soft green of the valleys with the dark shade of the pine forests - the rushing of torrents & the roaring of avalanches: One feels very independant too with your little [Indecipherable] of luggage on your horse behind you & a civil guide to do the needful. The great drawback on the dreadful stony paths in descending - but for very thick hobnailed boots our feet must have become quite tender. From Brienz we crossed the Brienz - where there is now a most excellent carriage road - it rather spoils the romance but travellers are delighted. Puss & I had the Coupé of the diligence where we were as comfortable 

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