James Cook - A Journal of the proceedings of His Majesty's Bark Endeavour on a voyage round the world, by Lieutenant James Cook, Commander, commencing the 25th of May 1768 - 23 Oct. 1770: No. 153

New Zealand
October 1769
32 fa.
Tuesday 17th. PM. Winds at W. a fresh breeze in the [Margin note deleted Hawkes Bay]
night Variable light Airs & Calm, AM, a gentle breeze between the NW & NE seeing no likelyhood [sic] of meeting with a Harbour & the face of the Country Vifibly altering for the worse I thought that the standing farther to the S. would not be attended with any Valuable discovery but
[Margin note] Cape Kidnapper
would be loosing of Time which might be better employ'd & with a greater Probability of succefs  in examining the Coast to the Northward with this View at 1PM Tackd & stood to the Northward having the Wind at W. a fresh breeze at this time we could see the land extending SWbS at least 10 or 12 Leagues~ The Bluff head or high point of land we were abreast of at Noon I have called Cape Turnagain
[Margin note] Cape Turnagain
because here we return'd it lies in the Lat. of 40:34 S Long. 189:55S. & 18 Leag. SSW & SSW[indec.] from Cape Kidnappers, the land between them is of a very unequal height, in some places it is high with White Cliffs next the Sea, in others low with sandy beaches the face of the Country is not nearly so well Cloathed with wood as it is about Hawkes Bay but for the most part looks like our high Downs in England & to all appearance well inhabited, for we saw sev. Villages as we run along shore not only in the Vallies but on the Tops & sides of the Hills & [?Smooks - Smokes?] in other places. The ridge of Mountains before mentioned extends to the Southw. farther than we could see & are everywhere Chequerd with Snow~ This night saw 2 Large fires up in the inland Country a sure sign that it must be inhabited. at Noon Cape Kidnappers bore N 156º W distant 7 Leagues Latde. obs 39º: 52'S. ~
Wednesday 18th. Variable light winds & fine weather at 4 AM Cape Kidnappers bore N 32º W. dist. 2 Leags. in this situation had 62 fam. & when the said Cape bore WbN, dist. 3 or 4 Leags. had 45 fam. Midway between the Isle of Portland & Cape Kidnappers had 65 fam. at Noon the Isle of Portland bore NE½E. dist. 4 Leag. Latde. observed 39º:34'.~
Thursday 19th. The first part had Gentle breezes at E & ENE in the night fresh Gales betw. the S. & SW. & dark cloudy weather with Lightning & rain at ½ past 4 PM Tack'd & stood to the SE. the Isle of Portland bore SE dist. 3 Leags. soon after we Tacked a boat or Canoe came off from the Shore wherein were 5 People, they came on board without showg the least sign of fear & insisted upon staying with us the whole night, indeed there was no getting them away without
[indec. throwing?] them out of the Ship by Force & that I did not care to do, but to prevent them playing us any Trick I hoisted their Canoe up alongside. 2 appear'd to be Chiefs, & the other 3 their Servts. one of the Chiefs seem'd to be of a free open & Gentle disposition, they both took great notice of every thing they saw & was very thankful for what was given them, the 2 Chiefs would neither Eat nor Drink with us, but the other 3 Eat whatever was offer'd them, notwithstanding that