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[Page 19]
the polish on the marble pillars. The Coptic Church (Christian) is situated away in the centre of Old Cairo. One goes down a multitude of stinking lanes (streets they call them) where the houses almost meet over head, & where water carriers with their squelching goat-skins & peddlars of all kinds cry their wares, through a huge gate in a wall kept by a blind & deaf Christian of about 90 summers who howls in a voice most pitiable to hear for "backsheesh" then through sundry subterranean passages till at last you come out into a dark room where, when your eyes become used to the light a cross like a Maltese Cross shows on all sides. This is the Church – a queer mixture of Eastern & Western ideas. In a vault beneath it is shown the place where the