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[Page 84]
No 5 Gown
The quaint descriptions of the Gown by R. Holme is amply sufficient to make the nature of the Garment intelligible it was not however Set out with a Fordingale or hoop in the beginning of Q Elizabeths Reign as is Evident from H M. Effigies on her Great Seal The Gown Remaind with Little alteration till the modern Short waists were Introducd by Lady Hamilton towards the Latter End of the Last Century The hoops Confind to Court Dresses the stays expelled from Female apparel & the Present Fancy Dresses introduced
in ancient times it Seems as if tthe Ladies wore Gown Similar to those of the men over their Kirtles This is Provd by the Seals of Alionor Ada de Longaspre &c Engravd in sandord. The Robes & mantles of the Ladies in ancient times Resembled those of the men & are therefore Classd with Gowns The mantles of thse Ladies who attended the Ceremonies of the order of the Garter Seem to have exactly resembled those of the Knights
The mantle & head dress of the Duchess of Exeter engravd in Sandford p. 396 from the brass of her monument at windsor is Elegant in the extreme other Circumstances Relative to the apparel of our ancestors may be Collected from the Engraving of monuments in that brass
1583 Their Gowns are of Silk velvet & Grograin & Taffetie of Scarlet & of fine cloth 10. 20. or 40 shillings a yard sometimes Layed with Lace all over the Gown 2 0r 3 fingers broad
as lace is not always Fine enough they must be garded with Great Gardes of velvet 4 0r 6 fingers broad & edgd with Costly Lace Some with Sleves hanging down to their skirts & cast over their shoulders like cows Tails
Some have Sleeves much Shorter Cut up the arm & Pointed with Silk Ribbons very Gallantly Tied with True Loves knots
Some have Capes Reaching to the midst of their Backs Faced with velvet or fine wrought Taffetie & Fringed about very bravely some are Pleated & Reveled down the back Stubbes Anat
1580 A Rail for a woman? Alveary Night Rail