Draft of a paper concerning the history of dress, undated (Series 87.02) - No. 0076

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Bishop Hall in his Sermon preachd at the Spittle  James 1st speaking of women says there is nothing to be seen in the vardingale a yellow Ruff & a Periwig with perhaps some Feathers  England Variety p. 136  again hear this ye Garish Popinjays hear this yea Plaster Faced Jezebels God will one day wash them off with fire & Brimstone  p 137. again Fashion brought us deep Ruffs & shallow Ruffs thick Ruffs & thin Ruffs Double Ruffs & no Ruffs  fashion brought us the vardingale & carried out the vardingale & [raised?] the vardingale & Placd it behind like a Rudder in some so big that the vessel is scarce able to bear it  p. 138

Cornet  a Linnen or Lacd headdress of women  Bailey

The magnificent Dress worn by Queen Elizabeth when she met her Parliament after the Defeat of the Spanish Armada of which a scene Print has been lately Copied & Republishd is the Same as the Dress of Catherine de Cleves  see montfeulon Vol 5 Pl 42  Catherine was married to the Duke of Guise in 1570

Ch 2nds disguise when he Escapd after the Battle of of worcester as a serving man was Grey cloth Breeches a Leathern Doublet & a green jerkin  monthly mag: Sept 1810 p 137.
Chaucer in his Remaunt of the Rose describing the Duch of Fraunchise
1230  For She had on a Sucking           for there is no cloth Sitteth bette
         That not of Hempe Hurd is was    on Demosel then doth Rokette
         so fair was here in all arras          a woman for more fetise is
         Lorde it was Riddeled fetisley       in Rokette then in Cote Iwis
         There [nae?] was not a Point truely    The White Rokette Riddiled Faire
         That it has in its true assize          Betokeneth that full debonaire
         full well yclothed was Fraunchise   & Swete was She that it ybere

Girdle -   Domescent for a [warrior]: Girdle Domescensit   Palsgrave
Hewke }  a Garment for women Froe Surquayne   Palsgrave
Huke   }
              Paste for a Lady or woman unes Paees
              Peake of a Ladys mourning head  Biquoquet
              Pendant of a Gyrdele  Pendant
              Petycote Corsent Simple, Cotte Simple Chemise de Blanchet
              Rayle for a womans Necke  Crevechief en quattres doubles