Draft of a paper concerning the history of dress, undated (Series 87.02) - No. 0091

[Page 91]

No  16                  Head dress

Saxons &    both the Saxon & Danish Ladies appear to have usd a Part of the Danes         garment which formd thier outer Covering as a head dress  Strutt
Kerchef       Coverchef cheff in old French signified head  The Giant antigone in Philips entry into antwerp had "Sur Son cheef une chapeau &c  the next improvement appears to have been a separate Peice of fine Linnen Placd on the head & falling gracefully down over the shoulders   in the Case of Great Personages it was fixd to the head by a Circlet of metal in others by some [tache?] or [fatchet?] which is not visible in the figure   this Loose habillement might be turnd into a variety of Forms to hide the face as a veil to shade  it from the sun or to hang loosely & Elegantly on either side or behind   Strut
muffler         a kercheif or muffler  Alveary  veil?  coverchef or Chaperon 
                   kerchief is now usd for a [vesture?] worn on the head of women going to church  alveary
1380?          Early in the Reign of Rich 2nd the women usd high attire on their heads & Piked horns  Stowe  p 295   See Strut Vol 2 Pl V1 for Ladies head dresses
Kercheif Calld a Voluper    English Expositour

                   The head dresses of the English Ladies had always been large Lofty  at this time both the English & the French Ladies increed them to an enormous size
1416            When Isobel of Bavarie Consort of Ch 6th kept her Court at Vincennes it was found necessary to make all the Doors of the Palace both higher & wider to admit the head dresses of the Queen & her Ladies  Villanet tom 13  p 423  Monstrelet  Pasquier 
1461            Elizabeth Queen of Edwd 4th  in Hardings Print, The nurse who holds in her arms the young Earl of warwick?   Strutt vol 2 Pl 7
1399            & that of Queen Jane Queen of Hen 4th  Do. Pl: 11 are similar & Singular
1380?           Queen anne wife to K Richd 2nd brought in high head attire Piked with Horns  She first taught the Ladies to ride on Side Saddles  Camdens Remains
1582             Their hair is Curled  Frizled & Crisped  Laid in wreaths or borders from one Ear to the other underpind with forks & wyers on the Edges of their bolsterd hair which hangs over their Faces like a Pentice (Petithouse)  These are Cald wreaths of Gold & Silver & hanged Bugles [vi]ches Rings Gold Silver & Glasse
                    Then on the tops of these Stately Turretts I mean their Goodly heads Stand other Capital ornaments as French hood Cap hat kercher Whereof some be of velvet some of Taffetie & a few of wool
                     they have Cowles also made netwise to the end that the Gold cloth or Silver or Tinsel with which their heads are attyred may Show itself under their Cowles in the bravest manner  Stubbes  anatomy of abuses
1380             Billements   The attire or ornaments of a womans head or neck or a Bonet a French hoode a Paste or such Like  alveary 
+ Paaste  See Bonnet  Do                                                                                                            Paaste a mop or wedge Do   
                      a Caule to Cover the heare as maydons do
                      a Coife to Tress up the heare  Do
1530               the Daug[th]er of John Nevile had on her marriage 3 Paasts  Role of [Cure] a Lattice Bonnet or Cap for a Gentlewoman  Golds:Rider 
Coronet Settee the Settee hangd down from the tip of the head below the           Breasts & is generaly Laced on both Sides & Ends or else wrought with Needlework  this is a Great Tasheen  1606  Rand Holme  B 2 p 402. No. 124
See Bonnets No 22   + det [kleedt?]  Past my well that habit suits (Lied) me well  Flemish