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[Page 11]
The Toga & Tunica of the Romans answer very well to the Gown & doublet of our ancestors. The Toga indeed had no Sleeves which were an improvement certainly but do not alter the nature of the Garment.
The Tunica had in Elder times short Sleeves in Later time Long ones but in all times it seems to have resembled the Cassock or ancient Doublet of England The sagum or military dress seems to have been Like a smock Frock The soldiers wore under this a garment that Reachd the mid thigh resembling exactly the scotch kilt
Hose & breeches were unknown to the Romans in the Figures of the Famous vatican [Teseree?] one however is evidently dressd in Hose Markd with a Stripe the whole Lengh of the Leg which puts the matter out of Doubt some doubt however has been thrown on the authenticity or rather on the antiquity of these Figures
The Proletarii or Lowest order of Romans who Paid no Taxes & could not afford Togae seem to have bee dressd in Tunica & [?] to have resembled our present blue Coat [?]
andrew Boorde Andrees [perforatie?] as he calld himself wrote the Satyr on the English which is prefacd by the figure of a naked man holding a Pair of Shears in one hand & Peice of Cloth in the other being uncertain of what Fashion he sould cut his Clothes
it was never merrier in England than when an Englishman was known by his own Cloth & contented himself with his Fine [Corsie hosen?] & a mean slop his Coat gown & Cloke of Brown blew or Puse with some prretty [ferniture?] of velvet or furr a doublet of Sadde Tawney or black velvet or other Comely silk without such [Gawish?] Colors as are worn nowadays Do
1379 Sir John Crundel one of the Commanders of an army sent by the King against France who was Lost on the Coast of Ireland lost not only his Life but all his furniture & apparell for his body which was so sumptuous as to be thought to surmount the apparall of our King for he had 52 New Suites of Cloth of Gold or Tissue the whole with his perces & valued at 10,000 Marks Holling p 1015
Raclet a Gaberdine or Loose Gown or Frock also a vestment used by Bishops English Exposition
1485 the Queen Sat alone & [leur?] on the Rushes Hol 1362
a squire in Ch 1st time Habited according to his Degree Randle Holme B. 3 P. 65 V having a Beaver with a Feather of 3 Falls on his head a satin Pinkd doublet Breeches & Cloak cast over his left arm scarlet embroiderd with gold a Belt over his Shoulder with a sword Pendant thereat &c a shaft in his Right hand
1688 now the Fashions vary the Principal garments are always used Doublet Breeches not hose Shoes for Covering a cloak or a coat with Sleeves