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[Page 301]

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his kingdom on the Turkish "vilayet" system, that is, it was divided into several provinces, and the Shah was informed by his financial advisers how much annual revenue he should receive from each area. He then delegated his powers to relatives and close friends, as Governors of these "vilayets", on the understanding that they should pay him the estimated revenue, but were quite free to squeeze as much extra out of the people as they possibly could.

The Governors lived luxuriously in small palaces with big entourages and staffs of clerks and servants, but little of the total taxation was spent on roads, hospitals, schools or other public works. There was no police force, as distinct from an army, and every citizen had to be his own policeman and carry a weapon to protect himself and his family: the wealthy ones flaunted the latest Mauser automatic pistols; the poorest had to be content with some old muzzle-loading horse pistol or a cut-down ancient rifle.

The Scottish Manager, McMurray, of the local branch of the Imperial Bank of Persia and his charming wife were extremely helpful and hospitable to us strangers in a strange land. They had been in Persia for several years and lived in a large house standing in a lovely walled-in garden on the outskirts of the town. On Sunday evenings a few of the resident British officers were always invited in turn, to dinner, which was really a delicious banquet. Mrs McMurray, the only lady, in an evening gown, presided at the end of the long table, from which she formally withdrew after the meal ended, leaving the gentlemen to partake of port and cigars and tell amusing or interesting stories for half an hour; after which they adjourned to the roomy drawing room to be entertained by Mrs McMurray at the piano, or continue conversation until it was time to go.  

On other Sunday evenings some of us were asked to dinner at the American Mission School. The Principal was a prim elderly lady and there were four young attractive female teachers. After a simple but delicious meal we were usually invited to stand around the Hammond organ and join in sing-

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