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[Page 71]

(65)
Brussels Leave

I had now seen everything of interest in Paris so we left Paris in the Continental express (which had just resumed running after five years) at 11 p.m. one night. We were a happy party in our carriage – two Aussies, two Canadian nurses and a Frenchman, his wife and two children who were returning to what was left of their home in a ruined village in the devastated areas. We travelled without a stop all night and early next morning entered the battlefields. Thousands of German prisoners were engaged repairing the railway line, and we crawled along – on either side of the railway line being the trenches and ruined villages. Passed through the famous lace city of Valenciennes, which was in ruins. The Frenchman, his wife and children now left us, so we had more room. Crossed the Belgian frontier and came to Mons. The train stayed here three quarters of an hour and we had a good look at this fine city which became famous on account of the Retreat from Mons, at the commencement of the war. The city was not damaged as no fighting took place within miles of it. We continued our journey over the flat country of Belgium and arrived at Brussels at 2 p.m. Stayed at the Y.M.C.A.

Brussels is a beautiful city – "A miniature Paris". It is of course smaller than Paris – has 2,000,000 people – but rivals the French capital for beauty and life. The Germans had occupied Brussels for four years and the civilian people told us some interesting stories of the German occupation. The city was not damaged as the Belgian army merely retreated from Brussels in 1914 and the Germans occupied it without any fighting. The people of Brussels were the real genuine Belgian people (not like some of the mongrel Belgians we encountered near the line) and couldn't do enough for the Allied soldiers, whom they called the "Deliverers". We travelled free on the trams and were admitted to the theatres &c at half price. The people were always inviting us to their homes and even though they were short of food they gladly shared what they had with their soldier guests. The people knew what it was to want during the German occupation of the city, as they had very little to eat and many died of starvation.

I bought two pieces of music at a little shop in Brussels. The lady told me that she had the music hid in a large case underneath the floor of one of her rooms during the time of the German occupation so that they wouldn't take it.

One incident I remember well that they told us of. When the Kaiser was to pass through Brussels on his way to the front, an order was issued to the inhabitants that they must remain indoors. If any were found in the streets during the prohibited hours they were shot dead. I had a good look over the city, seeing the Cathedral, Hotel de Ville (Town Hall), and the Palis de Justice, which building (built of white marble) is regarded as one of the finest buildings in the world.

Went to the beautiful Opera House (de la Monnaie) – which is smaller but nearly as beautiful as that of Paris – on two nights

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