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[Page 10]

up here are the beautiful sun rises and sut sets. I couldn't describe them if I tried. One often reads in books about the wonderful affects of a tropical sun-set, but that doesn't half convey to you what it is really like – you have to see them for yourself.

We have a run of something over 300 miles now to the Gilbert Islands, where we should arrive on Saturday next.

Sunday. 30thYAugust. Left Ocean Island about 6 p.m. on Thursday last, and arrived at Butaritari (Gilbert Is.) at 7 on Saturday morning. We had been steaming for about 2 hours along the shore of some low lying Islands before we entered a break in the Reef which led into the lagoon. The peculiar part of these Islands are that they are so very low lying. None of them being above 10 feet at the most, and no mountains whatever.

We anchored some 1 ½ miles from the shore. As usual the cargo is discharged into Surf boats, and towed ashore by the ship's launch. It is a very bad harbour here, and even the launch could not get within about 50 yards of the shore. The natives wade out and carry the good s ashore on their shoulders. I went ashore here and as soon as the launch stopped, the niggers jumped out, and stood by the side of the launch. I was beginning to wonder how I was going to get ashore dry,, when one of the niggers motioned me to get on his back. You get on to the niggers shoulders, and wind your legs round his body so as to get a good grip, at the same time gripping his woolly hair with your hands. It felt a bit shaky at first, but after doing it 4 or 5 times, one felt perfectly

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