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[Page 110]
4/12/15
Up at 0830, quite warm and close. Went up to Panaghia with Mervington [?] walked the whole way up and back, 12 miles in all and appreciated the crystal rills at the two old little springs on the road. A stony rough track, the tinkle of sheep bells sounding from the valleys – as these bells have different notes the effect is very musical. Poplars and oaks and olive trees (like our lightwood) are the main trees, a short green stunted scrub or heather covers the stony rises. Some of the peaks are very abrupt and lift their barren tops up in a wreath of cloud mist. The only traffic on the track was a few mules loaded with stores, most of the muleteers in native dress and gave the local greeting "sperra!"
Over a ridge the village of Shinuidi came into view nestling comfortably in a hollow on the mountains just before reaching there are forests. A turn in the track to the right brings Panaghia into view with a broad road running straight on to the sea. On the top of the bluff there is another village. The road wanders in among cultivation and olive trees until the old cobblestoned street comes into view.
At the London and the High Life at 1300 the same tale was heard: - "Dinner finish" so we went further on into a little Greek tavern and had a good plate of a meat stew and potatoes taken off the fire at the end of the room and a plate of honey with plenty of bread. The whole washed down with plenty of wine – light stuff costing a penny a glass. An old looking little inn this with its other diners labourers clad in the circular caps & stockings